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Sulamani Pahto About 1km east of Dhammayangyi, this broad two storey temple is one of Bagan's most attractive, with lush grounds (and a fair share of vendors) behind the surrounding walls. It's a prime example of later, more sophisticated temple styles, with better internal lighting. This temple, known as the Crowning Jewel, was constructed around 1181 by Narapatisithu. Combining the horizontal planes of the Early period with the vertical lines of the Middle, the receding terraces create a pyramid effect. The brickwork throughout is considered some of the best in Bagan. The gilded sikhara is a reconstruction; the original was destroyed in the 1975 earthquake stupas stand at the corners of each terrace, and a high wall, fitted with elavorate gateways at each cardinal point, encloses the entire complex. The interior face of the wall was once lined with 100monastic cells, a feature unique among Bagan's ancient monasteries.

Carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters represents some of Bagan's finest ornamental work and is in fairly good condition. Glazed plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible.

Buddha images face the four directions from the ground floor; the image at the main eastern entrance sits in a recess built into the wall. The interior passage around the base is painted with quite big frescoes from the Konbaung period, and there are traces of earlier frescoes. The stairways to the top are closed.

A walled enclosure in the north of the compound contains the remains of Sulamani Kyaung. A water tank in the compound is thought to be the only original Bagan reservoir still in use by local residents.

Thabeik Hmauk Facing Sulamani from 150m east, this sikhara-topped temple looks like a smaller version of Sulamani, but is (for the time being) blissfully free of visitors or vendors. Much of its interiors were damaged by the 1975 earthquake, but there are multiple stairways up to a wrap-around meditation chamber with little light (and a few bats). There are two outside terraces, reached by narrow stairs, with superb views.

Pyathada Paya About 750m southeast of Sulamani, reached by dirt roads that sometimes get obscured in goat fields, this impressive pagoda is a superb sunset viewing spot, with a giant open terrace-Bagan' largest atop the steps, and another small deck up. Many days, visitors have it to themselves; on others a lone group may be here.

Myinkaba Area The sites north and south of Myinkaba village are all just off the main road and easy to access. These are listed in order from north to south.

Mingalazedi Paya Close to the riverbank, towards Myinkaba from the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel, Mingalazedi Paya (Blessing Stupa; aka "Sunrise Pagoda") is a hot spot forsunrise (and sunset too): it faces the full Bagan plain to the east. It's enormous bell-like dome, reached by steep stairs up three receding terraces, and for the beautiful glazed Jataka tiles around each terrace. Although many Jataka have been damaged or stolen, there are still 561 of the 1061 orignials left. The smaller square building in the zedi grounds is one of the few Tripitaka libraries made of brick.

The Mingalazedi is the very last of the large Late-period monuments. It was built from 1268 to 1274 by Narathihapati, who tempted fate (the story goes) by overlooking a prophecy that Bagan would fall if the pagoda was ever finished. Ten years after it was,. Mongols invaded and Bagan's prominence fell.

Gubyaukgyi Situated just to the left of the road as you enter Myinkaba, Gubyaukgyi (Great Painted Cave Temple) sees a lot of visitors (and vendors) during peak season for it's well-preserved, richly coloured paintings inside. These are though to date from the temple's original construction in 1113, when Kyanzittha's son Rajakumar built it following his father's death. In Indian style, the monument consists of a large vestibule attached to a smaller antechamber. The fine stuccowork on its exterior walls is in particularly good condition.

Perforated, Pyu-style windows means you'll need a powerful torch to see the ceiling paintings clearly. If it's locked off-season, ask in the village for the keymaster.

Next to the monument stands the gilded Myaezedi (Emerald Stupa). A four sided pillar in a cage between the two monuments bears an inscription consecrating Gubyaukgyi and written in four languages Pyu, Mon, Old Burmese and Pali, Its linguistic and historical signigicance is great, since it establishes the Pyu as an important cultural influence in early Bagan and relates the chronology of the Bagan kings.

Manuha Paya In Myinkaba village, about 500m south of Gubyaukgyi, stands this active (and rather modern-looking) pagoda, named after the Mon king from Thaton, who was held captive here by King Anawrahta.

In the front of the building are three seated Buddhas; in the black is a huge reclining Buddha. All seem too large for their enclosures supposedly representing the stress and discomfort the king had to endure. However, these features are not unique in Bagan. It should be pointed out that conquerors of the 11th century weren't lin the habit of sparing the lives of leaders even for a captive life . Aung San Suu Kyi, in fact, described the sympathetic account of Manuha as one of the most admirable parts of Burmese history unstinting respect for a noble enemy.

Nan Paya Just south of the Manuha Paya by dirt road, this shrine is said to have been used as Manuha's prison, although there is little evidence supporting the legend. In this story the shrine was originally Hindu and captor's thouth using it as a prison would be easier than converting it to a Buddhist temple. It's worth visiting for its interior masonary work sandstone block facing over a brick core, certainly some of Bagan's finest detailed sculpture. Perforated stone windows are typical of earlier Bagan architecture in fact it was probably bagan's first gu style shrine.

In the central cancturaly the four stone pillars have finely carved sandstone bas relief figures of three faced Brahma. The crator deity is holding lotus flowers, thought to be offering to a freestanding Buddha image once situated in the shrine's centre, a theory that dispels the idea that this was ever a Hindu shrine. The side of the pillars feature ogrelike kalaate heads with open mouths streaming with flowers. Legend goes that Shiva employed such creatures to protect temples. But they proved too ferocious; so Shiva tricked them into eating their bodies. Then fed them flowers to keep their mind off snacking on worshippers. In the centre of the four pillars is an altar, on which once stood a standing Buddha or some locals believe a Hindu God.

Abeyadana Pahto About 400m south of the Manuha, this 111th century temple with a Sinhalese style stupa was supposedly built by Kyanzittha's Bengali wife Abeyadana, who waited for him here as he hid for his life from his predecessor King Sawlu. It's famed for its original frescoes, which were cleaned in recent years by Unesco Staff. With a torch, you can make out many figures that Abeyadana, believed to be a Mahayanist, would likely have asked for Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, and Hindu deities (Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and Indra). The inner shrine contains a large, brick, seated Buddha (partly restored); surrounding walls are lined with niches, most now empty. Inside the front wall are many jataka scenes.