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South Korean Cuisine

"A majestic view has no charm when the table is bare," notes one Korean proverb. The cuisine of this country offers the visitor a bountiful variety of dishes unchanged through the centuries. Although a few urban sophisticates may eat Western-style breakfasts, most Koreans enjoy three hearty, traditional meals each day, centered around steamed rice.

Whether accompanied by soup, meat, vegetables, or fish, no repast is complete without small dishes of kimchi. This highly seasoned and fermented pickled cabbage, radish, or cucumber dish is unique to the Korean diet and provides much-needed vitamins during the long winter months. Kimchi is known throughout the world not only for liberal doses of garlic and red pepper but also for the large brown-glazed pots in which the vegetables are fermented and stored buried in the ground. Every proud Korean homemaker has her own method for making kimchi, whether it's the winter variety made at harvest time or the summer type made on a day-to-day basis. Be forewarned, though, that kimchi can be an acquired taste.

Probably the most popular local specialty among visitors is pulgogi (also bulgogi or pulgoki)-marinated strips of beef cooked over a brazier at the table. The marinade includes soy sauce, garlic, green onions, sesame seeds, and oil. Cooked to your taste, the meat is accompanied with boiled rice and kimchi (of course). Pulkalbi (short ribs) are served in the same manner.

Other common dishes are kujolpan-small pancakes that you fill with a variety of meats and vegetables, and then roll; sinsullo (Angel's Brazier)-a bubbling brazier filled with broth, chopped vegetables, meat, gingko nuts, quail eggs, and fish balls or bean curd; naengmyon-a refreshing summer dish of cold noodles (made of wheat or potato flour), topped with vegetables, eggs, and pieces of meat; mandu-kuk-soup with meatballs wrapped in dough; and hanjong-shik-a simple meal of the day in Korean inns, consisting of soup with side dishes of rice, vegetables, fish, meat, and kimchi.

Beer (maekju), a popular beverage throughout the country, is available in two domestic brands-Crown and OB. It is a satisfying accompaniment to the many spicy dishes. Tea, the traditional drink, comes in many flavors-ginger, ginseng, and barley are only a few. A very pleasing white wine called Majuang is available for about W7,900 (US$10). And for hard liquor, soju (potato vodka) is a Korean favorite.

Water in major hotels is potable, but in other places it's best to stick to boiled tea and bottled drinks.

Restaurants

There are a number of good Western restaurants in the big cities throughout South Korea. The better ones have sprung up in the many new international class hotels. For example, at least half of the Hotel Lotte's 31 specialty restaurants and bars cater to the Western palate. More casual Western-style restaurants are common, including some chain restaurants like T.G.I. Friday's and Coco's. Fast-food places are becoming increasingly prevalent, too.

There are countless restaurants in South Korea serving local fare and national delicacies. Chinese restaurants are very popular among South Koreans. Japanese restaurants are pricey, but affordable sushi places have been popping up near office buildings to serve the lunch crowd. Seoul has a large number of international restaurants.

There are several dinner theaters in Seoul offering performances of traditional Korean dance. Prices for the dinner and show hover around W50,000 (US$63). For dinner theater on a budget, visit Sanch'on, a dinner theater serving Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. A dinner performance here costs W15,000 ($19).

A 10 percent tax is added to restaurant bills at better restaurants. Tipping is not customary but is appropriate for outstanding service.

 

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