Travel ( Colombo Fort )

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 A full-day walking iternary of the city's major sights. Begin this tour from the commercial hub called the Fort - with little evidence of any walls - where historical buildings abound.

Start in the Colombo Fort area where most of the five-star hotels are located. In front of hotel Marriot is the Presidential Secretariat, which was the parliament until it moved in 1982 to more spacious quarters in the island's new administrative capital, Sri Jayewardenepura Kotte.

No visitors are allowed into the building except on official business. When the President is in his office, there is increased security. A peep through the black grilles reveals statues of recent national heroes, including the first prime Minister of independent Sri Lanka, D S Senanayake.

Though called the Fort, the commercial area of Colombo shows little sign that it was once a military stronghold, defended in turn over centuries by the Dutch, Portuguese and British. In front of the Presidential Secretariat, some old cannons still point out towards the sea, a reminder of the threat of invasion from the ocean in the early days.

Chaitya road, which hugs the Indian Ocean, is a pleasant walk past the light house on the left, a favorite meeting place for lovers in the evening. Sit on the stone lion and have a photo taken.

Further down is the Immigration Office which issues passport. Don't be daunted by the crowds. They are mainly people seeking jobs in the Gulf region who have paid double to collect passports on the same day, often accompanied by friends and relations.

On the left is the imposing dagoba which can be seen miles away by those entering Colombo by sea. It was built by the port workers of Colombo in 1956 to commemorate the 2,500th year of Buddhisim. If you're in the mood for climb, the dagoba is worth a look as an example of modern architecture borrowing elements from the past.

Turn right into church Street. The Port of Colombo lies to the left whilst on the right is the rear of Gordon Gardens, now lost forever to the public as it lies within Republic Square in front of the Foreign Ministry. The Gardens contain a rock inscribed with the Portuguese Coat of Arms and a statue of Queen Victoria, both built to commemorate her Jubilee anniversary.

Return to Presidential Secretariat and walk towards the Lighthouse Clock Tower in the distance along Janadhipathi Mawatha. Hotel Ceylon Intercontinental is on the left while on the right is the circular Bank of Ceylon Headquarters, which is believed to be tilting. Some say it may one day become Lanka's Leaning Tower of Pisa! The bank has a convenient exchange counter for travellers cheques and cash. In front of the main enterance to the bank is the Fort Police Station,which once housed a Dutch hospital.

Continue walking towards the Clock Tower. Ceylinco Building, Sri Lanka's only high-rise building of the 1960s is on the right. Just inside the gate is a little memorial to the last King, Sri Wickrema Rajasinghe, who was imprisoned here by the British after being captured in Kandy in 1815. On the fourth floor of the building is the Philatelic Bureau.There aree sets of stamps of Sri Lanka available here, without the long queues at the general Post Office. The Akasekade Restaurant is on the top floor from where there is a spectacular view of colombo.

Where Janadhipathi Mawatha and the Chatham Street meet is the Lighthouse Clock Tower you have been using as a marker. Probably the best known landmark of the fort, the tower built in 1857 is the only lighthouse in the world which also tells the time in the middle of the busy road. Just past it is the President's House, where two solitary guards are on sentry duty, one at each gate. The Army, Navy and Airforce take turns in guarding the president every three months.

Janadhipathi Mawatha merges into Sir D B Jayatilleke Mawatha, where Premadasa & Co have a gem shop carrying a wide variety of jewellery in beautiful designs. This is also the banking district, where many local and foreign banks have offices. A number of Airlines, including Airlanka, are located in this area. The island's Board of Investments has a six-floor building on this street.

At the end, near Seylan Bank, turn left to York Street, where you can change money without much hassle at the Bank of Ceylon's Bureau de Change.

Stroll to the nave of the Garrison Church of St Peter, originally the reception and banquet hall of the Dutch Governor's residence. It was first use as a church in 1804. Cross York Street and walk along the shady buildings opposite the Port, and turn right into the extension of D B Jayatilleke Mawatha. There is good Bata shoe shop where inexpensive shoes are available. On the opposite side, at the YMBA Building, are two more shops - DSI and Elasto - which sell locally-made shoes.

Mind how you cross the strret. Pedestrain crossings are seldom respected by motorists. The only time Sri Lankans stop for pedestriansis when there is a funeral procession.

The YMBA Buildinghas a lovely Buddhist shrine. A serene Buddha statue beckons those who want a sense of peace and tranquillity to reflect, even momentarily, on life. The flowers in front of the Buddha are offerings made by the devout. As they make their offerings, Buddhists often utter in Pali: 'Gaze upon these beautiful flowers, which in a few hours will wither away. Such is my own life.'

Turn left at the Bristol Street and walk to the new headquarters of the commercial bank. Nearly touching the walls of the Commercial Bank is the Delft Gateway, built during the Dutch period of 1656-1796.

Return to Jayatilleke Mawatha and cross the road in front of the car park to Cargills and Millers, neighbouring department stores where the elite of Colombo once shopped. Although run by the same conglomerate today, the stores are a far cry from their former splendour. On the same road is the state-run Laksala, excellent for souvenirs of Sri Lanka. Whether it be giant carved masks or cocunut shell carvings, a wide range of the islands hadicrafts are dispalyed here in Laksala's spacious surroundings. Across the road is the World Trade Center, opened hastily in December 1991 for the annual meeting of Heads of State of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC).

Pause for lunch at the Hilton hotel. the salad bar is impressive and so are the desserts.

Continue for about five minutes along lower Chatham Street to Plcott Mawatha and encounter's Lanka's World Market, a day and night bazaar open seven days a week. Here is an exciting array of goods, from leather bags to tee-shirts and toys.

Nearby is the Fort Railway Station, the main station in Sri Lanka. The train services in colombo are woefully inadequate, while the outstation services are good but crowded during rush hour. Most destinations have only second and third class coaches, but there is a first class observation coach trip to the hill country which should not be missed.

Opposite the railway station is the outstation state-owned bus depot which serves most parts of the island. Take the first cross-street and turn left to Keyzer street, which specialises in household items.Turn left again to Prince Street, which sells glass, mirrors and electrical items.

Continuing along Prince street, the road joins Malwatte Avenue, the music street selling English, Sinhala and Tamil cassettes. Sinhala pop is quite rhythmic and Sri Lanka's own baila music, has its rhythmic style of its own.The lyrics generaaly poke fun at people and society.

At the Pettah Clock Tower at the end of malwatte avenue in front of Hunter's department store, go down Bankshall Street, the second road from the left. Turn right at the second cross-street to behold the red and white Pettah Mosque. It is a preety sight against the drab adjoining buildings and the minrates look like candy bars.

Turn right on Gasworks Street to see the Old Town Hall, restored and now housing shops on either side. In the center is a large hall. Adjoining it is the Colombo Municipal Council Museum, where among the more interesting exhibits are Sri Lanka's first printing machine, drinking fountains and road rollers. The mountain which stood on galle face Green, bequeathing the promenade built in 1856 by Governor Henry Ward, also lies in the museum.

We retrace our steps to the main road and turn left to Kayman's Gate. The belfry dates back to the Dutch period and may be the oldest Christian structure extant in Sri Lanka. The word 'Kayman' comes from the Dutch cayman as crocodiles once gathered here to eat the leftovers thrown out from the fort. The bell was rung to indicate closing time for tipplers drinking at the local taverns.

We continue our journey on Sea Street, the road where goldsmith ply their trade. These shops are popular with Sri Lankans and Indians as most brides-to-be come here to shop for gold jewellery. At the end of Sea Street are two beautiful Hindu temples, the old and new Kathiresan kovils.

There are more temples on Gontupitiya Street to the right. Colourful hindu deities pianted in various colours adorn the tall buildings. Sea Street joins St Anthony's Mawatha, and by the sea stands the famous Chruch of St Anthony, a sanctuary not only for Christians, but those of other faiths seeking solace within its walls.

Take a taxi or auto-rickshaw back to Fort and your hotel. By now your feet will be aching after the long walk. Take a cool dip in the hotel pool and have a relaxed evening. For dinner, try the Shogun Restaurant at the Renaissance Hotel, housed in a large stationary boat on the Beira lake.